If I had been asked a couple of years back to rate tea
amongst my list of preferred beverages, it would not have ranked so highly. A
tea bag dunked in boiling water with some sugar and milk was considered an okay
pick me up, adequate with cake or biscuits in the afternoon, better with fresh,
butter-drenched cumin parathas and stir-fried shredded cabbage for
breakfast. I used to enjoy a freshly brewed cup of coffee in the mornings, with
plenty of hot frothy milk and cinnamon, and a cigarette. This was before I
discovered the intensely disagreeable effects coffee had on both my digestive
and nervous systems, after which I have abstained from even a drop. Since my
stay in Delhi however, I must admit that I now cannot get enough of tea. If I
cannot find the time to make a proper cup of masala chai in the morning my day
does not seem to pass smoothly; I start to feel deficient in some way,
strangely hollow.
I was flicking through the television channels during one
of my usual bouts of insomnia, checking the On Demand section for programmes I
may have missed over the past week, when I chanced upon Victoria Wood’s Nice Cup of Tea on the BBC. The information button described the comedienne
travelling through China and India, meeting “chai wallahs, opium smokers, Assam tea pickers and grumpy elephants”
along the way. I was more than intrigued and settled down nicely to a
thoroughly enjoyable and informative, humour-riddled documentary on the history
and industrialisation of the tea trade. I applaud Victoria Wood for writing
such an entertaining yet honest account of history. Even dark and uncomfortable
truths of the depraved intentions and practices behind the British Empire were
revealed, though the weight of these details were detracted through the use of
her amiable, satirical wit.
Tea: Some Uncomfortable Home Truths
Tea: Some Uncomfortable Home Truths
After the
programme, I thought deeply of the consequences of the tea trade. The Chinese
were, and continue to remain, admirably wise. When direct trade between Europe
and China first began in the 16th Century, entry into China was
forbidden to all outsiders; certain ports were specified solely for trade in
order to keep invaders and foreign rulers out. The Chinese kept the production
of their most lucrative and sought after exports a closely guarded secret, tea
being one of them. By the 18th Century, British demand for tea –
along with such coveted Chinese goods as silk and porcelain – grew rapidly. In
contrast, Chinese demand for British goods was low and silver, the only
commodity the Chinese would accept, and which the British were subjected to
purchasing from other European nations, was only incurring the Empire further
losses. This distressing degradation caused Britain to turn to India, by then
under British rule, to exploit its opium poppy harvests in order to restore the
balance of trade with China. The British introduced opium to China, where its
fatally addictive nature quickly allured the masses, securing an instant
consumer market. Despite strong protest from the Qing Dynasty government,
British traders began the import of opium from India until its sale and
consumption was finally prohibited in 1729. It was only a century later, in
1838, when China’s own silver had been exhausted from the sheer number of its
people hooked on the destructive narcotic that the Daoguang Emperor demanded
the arrest of Chinese opium dealers, along with the confiscation and
destruction of all foreign stock. In retaliation, the British devastated the
Chinese coast in the First Opium War. This resulted in China being forced to
pay the British for security, to open its ports to Britain, France and the
United States, and to relinquish Hong Kong to Queen Victoria whilst recognising
Britain and China as equals. Though the House of Commons had wondered if there had ever
been "a war more unjust in its origin, a war more calculated to cover this
country with permanent disgrace”, the Second Opium War was proclaimed a triumph
in the British press. This subsequent victory ensured new Chinese ports to be
opened for foreign trade, permission granted for all foreigners (including
Christian missionaries) to travel throughout the country, and indemnities of
five-million ounces of silver to be paid to Britain and France. This period in
Chinese history is referred to as the Century of Humiliation. The lasting effects of these mercenary disputes, all stemming from a guzzling appetite for
the cured leaves of some aromatic plant, are still evident today.
As
the British poisoned the Chinese, laws enforcing the prohibited sale and
personal use of opium in India were so rigid, so effectively enforced, that the
Indian opium den was eliminated, and continues to remain relatively so. The
British had encouraged agricultural productivity, even providing economic
incentives for workers to bear more children in order to assist in the fields.
Furthermore, Indian landlords were given a share from cash crop systems,
driving them to mount unrestrained pressure onto their workers. The cultivation
of such vast amounts of opium, with an enforced scarcity of its demand on
Indian soil, allowed the British to control both its production and its
distribution, monopolising the entire trade. Then, intense Indian droughts
started to result in the failure of grain crops, and population numbers were
beginning to exceed the amount of available food and land. This led to the
Great Famine of 1876-78. During this period, not only did the British
government continue to oversee the export of a record 2.9 million tonnes of
Indian wheat to England, but it also refused to export grain to India from its
colonies in an attempt to reduce expenses on welfare. It has been estimated
that between 12 million and 29 million Indians died for the British appetite
and as a consequence of Britain’s financial greed. It was after this period
that many Indians, mostly agricultural and skilled labourers, began to migrate
to such British colonies as those in East Africa and the West Indies to take up
work as indentured labourers. The ultimate inception behind my existence.
Personal Preferences
Personal Preferences
Aside
from the poignant realities behind the tea trade, I also began to think of the
peculiarities of tea loving nations in great anticipation of the morning, when
I would finally be able to relish my next cup. I found Wood’s reactions to the
various tea preparations she was savouring quite amusing. Whilst the Chinese
infusions were appreciated for their delicacy and floral fragrance, the
traditionally brewed tea offered by the Singpho people of Arunachal Pradesh
(and enjoyed with a hit of opium by the men folk) was considered too strong and
bitter. A cup of Indian tea in Assam was likened to cocoa: treacly, and thick
with sugar and condensed milk; it was “not quite doing it”. And finally, a
special masala chai in Kolkata, prepared with spices, mint, and rosewater by a chai-wallah
called Sadhu, was dubiously described as tasting like sweet, hot milk; it
appeared difficult to detect any tea flavour at all. It was “really lovely”,
she opines, but “he might need to think about doing a skinny version”. The very
thought of a masala chai made with rosewater and mint makes my mouth start to
water. That exotic, perfumed, intense sweetness is something Victoria described
as a world away from a British cuppa. And quite rightly so.
The
tea I grew up with was boiled in milk and water, in a saucepan over the stove.
It was sweet, rich, and subtly spiced, always with a commercial chai masala
powder that contained far too much dried ginger for my taste. It was strained,
always with a brightly coloured plastic tea strainer; my mother would fly into
a rage over tea leaves littering the kitchen sink. And there was always that
fine layer of cream floating persistently at the top of your cup, savoured by
some, despised by others. For years I thought tea – and the word chai – to be
purely of Indian origin, as I did saffron and chillies. The brightly dressed
Indian woman picking tea on the boxes of PG Tips confirmed this to me, as did
the love of tea displayed by not only every member of my family, but also every
Indian person I encountered. Everything seemed to be governed by chai, from my
parents’ will to go on in the mornings, to my dad’s functioning by the late
afternoon, and finally to the drawn out seeing off of dinner guests well past
midnight. This tea was the only tea I had known.
Drinking
English tea, at cafes, canteens, and restaurants, I had always felt that there
was something missing; that the tea had not been allowed to brew for long
enough, that the establishment was being forced to act frugally with their milk
supply, or that the entire method of preparation may have been desperately
rushed. Back when I used to frequent the farmer’s market each Saturday for
dairy produce, a couple of friends and I decided to spend one morning in
languor at a charming little café along Stoke Newington Church Street. Seated
in the rear outdoor area of the café, on distressed filigreed garden furniture
under a forest green parasol, we were surrounded by pots of evergreen shrubs,
grasses, and herbs placed along the walls. There was a shed or greenhouse
taking up most of the limited space, which resulted in a warm and intimate
atmosphere amongst the friends and couples discussing artwork, theatre plays
and modelling. We ordered a pot of tea and it arrived in an Alice in Wonderland
style clear glass teapot with some sort of high tech filter within containing
the tea. What a spectacle! We poured ourselves a cup and tucked into our
pastries. But what a disappointment the tea turned out to be. It was still
bland and watery; poorly flavoured hot water. I allowed the tea to stew for the
duration of our morning, added more milk to my cup, more sugar. It was just not
doing it.
And
I can never forget the first time I tried green tea. When I used to work at the
pharmacy, a work colleague would wax lyrical about Jacksons of Piccadilly,
insisting I try their sencha green tea with lemon. I was stubborn in
those days and had remained quite resolute in my refusal to chance a gustatory
experience so unusual; I had been the same with sushi. My colleague kindly
offered me a couple of teabags to take home and try. That weekend, I must have
indulged in one too many gin and tonics, and woke up on Sunday morning feeling
worse for wear. Remembering the green tea, I thought I might as well make
myself a cup; I could do with the detox. I found the taste revolting! It was unpleasantly
bitter with a grassy mustiness, the lemon flavour reminiscent of Dioralyte. I
forced myself to down it regardless. Within a minute or two I had my head in
the toilet, projectile vomiting every last drop back out. I have since found
white tea more agreeable to my palate.
Tea on the Indian Subcontinent
Tea on the Indian Subcontinent
China
is the world’s largest producer and consumer of green tea, whilst India is the world’s largest producer and consumer of black tea, which explains the tea
drinking habits of these great nations. The Chinese, along with the people of
the Himalayan regions, historically drank tea as a medicinal decoction before
its popularity increased as an invigorating, bitter stimulant. So why and when
did the people of India decide to add copious amounts of milk, sugar, and
spices to this traditionally pure and uplifting brew? The British found that
they could grow tea in Assam and, in order to compete with China’s monopoly on
the product, resolved to use Chinese techniques to cultivate it on an
industrial scale. Thus, the British fondness for the leaf, followed by a drop
in its consumption during the Great Depression of the 1930s generating a
production surplus, was passed on to Indian society, giving rise to the
integral part it plays in Indian culture and identity today. Before the advent
of tea, Indians would drink coffee in the South, and milk and yoghurt based
drinks in the North, along with herbal preparations and broths of medicinal
value to supplement their diets. Fresh rasas, the juices of seasonal
fruits and sugarcane, along with coconut water, were widely consumed throughout
India, as were fragrant herbal infusions and sharbats enhanced with
balancing spices and floral essences. Hospitality and social ceremonies
revolved around the offering of paan, the stimulating betel leaf and areca nut
preparation, then devoid of the cancerous effects of tobacco. The hookah,
originating in the North Western provinces of India and initially used to smoke
herbs and spices to relieve disorders of the respiratory system, was
popularised as a social pastime activity by the Mughals via Iran. Freshly
prepared snack foods, and board and card games also played integral roles in
Indian hospitality and home entertainment.
As
the popularity of tea began to grow amongst Indians, the majority of Indian tea
was still being exported to Britain. This usually left the Indians with low
grade tea dust, which chai wallahs began to boil with milk, sugar, and
spices for longer periods to draw out as much as they could from their tea.
This could explain the birth of masala chai as we know it today, but what else
is behind its distinct recipe?
India
remains the largest producer and consumer of milk in the world, neither
exporting nor importing the stuff. Milk has always been highly prized, both for
nourishment and for cultural and religious practices. The Vedic scriptures
revere cows milk as nectar, nourishing and balancing; there are passages
dedicated to its proper collection and preparation, and to its many therapeutic actions and properties, in the Ayurvedic classics. A golden rule with milk is
that it requires sufficient boiling in order to render it digestible for
humans. The cream that settles on the top, known in Northern India as malaai,
is considered heavy and difficult to digest, and is almost always skimmed off and
churned to make butter, or used to enhance desserts and festive foods. Milk was
traditionally taken at the beginning of each day for strength and vigour, and
at bedtime as a restorative and nervine tonic. Spices such as ginger and black
pepper were added as digestive stimulants and to counter the cooling, unctuous
nature of milk, whilst the pungency of cardamom served as an expectorant,
neutralising the mucous forming properties of milk. Cardamom also detoxifies caffeine, which explains its liberal use in the time honoured Turkish and
Middle Eastern methods of preparing coffee, again, via Iran. It can be safe to
generalise Indians as a nation of sweet lovers, and pots of boiling milk are
sweetened with cane sugar not only for the taste, but because energy-rich
unrefined sugar works to carry nutrients faster and more effectively to all the
bodily tissues. The sugar modulating effect of cinnamon was well known to the vaidyas
through its bitter and pungent taste and its digestion stimulating properties,
explaining its essential use in the more saccharine masala chai recipes.
The
ritualistic process of pouring the tea back and forth from a height also finds
its origins in health and well being. Apart from its obvious function of
cooling down the hot tea before serving, it is believed in Ayurveda that the
air bubbles produced by pouring a drinking liquid from a height increase the prana
in a person, the life force. Working as a supplementary immunomodulator in
modern terms, such practices continue to be carried out in India with drinking
water and lassis, for example, though their original significance has
been long lost. Even the order in which the ingredients enter the pot is owed
to medicinal practices: the herbs and spices are added to the water first in order
to draw out their essential oils. Then the fatty milk is added to mingle with
these oils as it heats up. The elongated boiling process allows all the
concentrated ingredients to disperse through the liquor, before tea and sugar
is finally added and brewed to taste.
The
ancient Eastern civilisations were at one with nature; anything that entered or
was applied to the body had medicinal value, balancing the body and mind and
promoting physiological homeostasis. Though these beneficial traditions are in
rapid decline, the literature is still available to be understood and observed.
Even something that Gandhi regarded as foreign, an exploitation of Indian
labour, has been wholeheartedly embraced and Indian-ised, the Vedic principles
of antiquity somehow finding their way again into the daily lives of Indians.
Though
some argue that tea was never introduced by the British, that it is indigenous
to India and that the British only played a part in its commercialisation and
popularisation, it is something I cannot deny being grateful for. Once I sign
off, I will probably continue to mull over the lasting effects of the tea
trade. What if the British Empire had not been so ruthless? What if my great
grandfather had never set sail for Uganda? Would my father still have met my
mother in London? Would I have ever come across the people I hold dearest to
me? Friends from Trinidad and Kashmir, friends whose parents emigrated here from
places like Guyana and Nepal?
In the meantime, I shall just go ahead and boil myself that nice cup of chai.
My
Masala Chai
(makes
1 cup)
1
cup water
¾
cup full fat milk (organic, unhomogenised)
1 inch piece of fresh ginger, grated
1 bag Organic India tulsi tea
1 bag Organic India tulsi tea
8 - 10 green cardamom pods, crushed well
1 black cardamom pod, crushed well
1 black cardamom pod, crushed well
½ cinnamon stick, pounded to a coarse powder
Pinch of cumin or fennel seeds (I prefer the strong,
savoury note of cumin)
6 - 8 black peppercorns, crushed (optional, for colder days)
6 - 8 cloves, crushed
Fresh mint leaves and stalks (optional, for hot days)
Dash of rose water
Dash of rose water
1 rounded tsp loose Assam tea leaves
2-4 tsps sugar (raw, unrefined)
· Boil
the ginger, tulsi, spices, and mint (if using) in the water for around 7 – 10 minutes.
· Add
the milk and bring to the boil.
· Finally add
the sugar and tea leaves, and allow to simmer until the required strength and colour is
achieved (about 2 – 4 minutes).
· Before serving, add the rose water. Strain into
a cup, and pour back and forth from one cup to another from a height, if desired, until
slightly cooled and energised with prana.